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The Numbers Game
Classic American Issue 158
So you have just parted with your hard-earned cash, and are now the proud owner of a part of American motoring history. But is your new pride and joy all it appears to be. How can you tell if twenty years ago someone didn’t decide to change the original six-cylinder engine for a more powerful, pulse racing V8? Confusion over engine size and type is not uncommon, especially with vehicles from the 1970’s. Pontiac, for example, was fitting Buick, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile and Pontiac engines in their cars during this decade. So if you are unsure what engine you have in you vehicle, how do you go about finding out?

To start with you really need to find out if the vehicle still has its original engine. You need to see if the engine serial or production code ties up with the vehicles VIN (vehicle identification number). The VIN can usually be found on a small plate on top of the dash on the driver’s side of the vehicle. This is best viewed from outside the vehicle, through the windscreen, best to do this with the vehicle stationary! As you can see from this 1999 C5 Corvette, fig 1, and the 1974 Challenger, fig 2, the VIN plate hasn’t moved much in 25 years, as indicated by the white arrows.



Fig 1. 1999 Corvette VIN Plate

Fig 2. 1974 Challenger VIN Plate
If you are unable to read the VIN from this plate, you may wish to check the door shuts, fig3. On some vehicles there is a sticker located here, which may also show the VIN code. If the sticker is still there, you may find it even shows the month of manufacture, which for some vehicles can be extremely useful when purchasing parts.

Fig 3. 1999 Corvette door shut sticker.
The engine code can usually be found stamped into a machined flat pad on the engine block just below one of the cylinder heads. Once you have found this, check to see if it matches the last sequence of numbers from the vehicles VIN. If it does then, “Yeeee Ha”, you have what is known as a ‘matching numbers’ car or truck and the engine belongs to that vehicle. Now all you need to do is decode your vehicles VIN and find out the size of your engine. Whilst you are checking the VIN for engine size it is also worth checking the actual year of your vehicle, this can also be done using the VIN. You never know, you may have purchased something that is either older or newer than you thought. If your vehicle was manufactured in 1981, or later, your VIN will be 17 digits in length. With most 17-digit VIN codes the 8th digit denotes engine type and size and the 10th digit is the year designation, see fig 4.

Fig 4. 10th Digit decoding in 17 digit VIN’s

VIN DIGIT
YEAR
VIN DIGIT
YEAR
B
1981
P
1993
C
1982
R
1994
D
1983
S
1995
E
1984
T
1996
F
1985
V
1997
G
1986
W
1998
H
1987
X
1999
J
1988
Y
2000
K
1989
1
2001
L
1990
2
2002
M
1991
3
2003
N
1992
4
2004
However, there are some exceptions, Chrysler Amc/Eagle and Jeep were using the 4th digit to indicate engine type and size on vehicles between 1983 and 1988. Through the 1970’s a vehicles VIN code was either 11 or 13 digits in length depending on the manufacturer. The table shown in fig 5 will help you to find your designated year and engine digits. There were some exceptions to the figures shown here mainly with GM, when during 1970 to 1972 they used the 3rd digit to identify engine type. Confusion sets in quickly here if you are not careful.
Fig 5. Year and engine digits in 13 and 11 digit VIN’s

Manufacturer
Digits in VIN
Year Digit
Engine Digit
AMC
13
2nd
7th
Buick (GM)
13
6th
5th
Cadillac (GM)
13
6th
5th
Chevrolet (GM)
13
6th
5th
Chrysler
13
6th
5th
Dodge
13
6th
5th
Ford
11
1st
5th
Lincoln
11
1st
5th
Mercury
11
1st
5th
Oldsmobile (GM)
13
6th
5th
Plymouth
13
6th
5th
Pontiac (GM)
13
6th
5th
Once you have this information you have three options to actually decode these mystical VIN digits. Option one will have you trying to find a book that has the relevant information. Option two will have you scouring the Internet for hours trying to find the elusive engine size. However, please beware when using the ‘inter-web’ as a reference source. Whilst there is a lot of useful information to be gleaned, there is also an equal amount of bogus information. The easiest option is option three, contact your friendly American spares dealer, they will usually have the ultimate VIN decoding information and should be able to tell you year and engine size in moments. Whilst checking your VIN it is well worth checking to make sure that the VIN on the vehicle also matches that on the V5 (log book). It is amazing how often they don’t match.

That of course was the fairy tale end to the engine type and size saga. What if things were different? What if the numbers do not match or even worse cannot be found? As mentioned earlier, this is not uncommon and all is not lost. You won’t be left standing there staring at a quarter of a ton of American engineering, wondering what it is, there are steps that can be taken to identify the beast.

As long as you know the manufacturer of your engine, that is to say whether it is AMC, Ford, GM or Mopar, then possibly the easiest way to identify an unknown engine is from the block numbers. By using both engine number and production code it can be possible to tell engine size (cubic capacity) and sometimes the date of manufacture. Whole books can and have been written on casting number identification, so it will only be possible to scratch the surface here. To make life easy some manufacturers, AMC for example, actually cast the cubic capacity in inches into the block during production. However this is not always the case, and further investigation may be required. When gathering your engine numbers it is important to make a note of exactly where on the engine they were found. Location of the numbers can play just as an important part in the identification process as the numbers themselves. For example, in 1970 all Cadillac engines had the serial number stamped just above the edge of the oil pan, on the lower left side of the block. This position changed during 1971-74 to the rear of the block behind the intake manifold. Then in 1975 the number was moved back to the lower left side of the block. So it is possible to eliminate certain year periods from your search using number location on the block. Ford is the exception here, with the cast numbers not always being conclusive in pin pointing engine capacity or year. In 1964 Ford introduced the engine tag which held all the information relevant to engines identification. However, over the years these tags go missing, either falling down the back of the sofa or being eaten by the dog. With a Ford engine it is worth a look at the rear of the engine block, on the drivers side just below the cylinder head. It is here that the original vehicles VIN can sometimes be found. Fig 6 shows the location of the all important cast number from a 1972 Chrysler 318 block. If viewed from the front the number is on the right hand side.


Fig 6. 1972 Chrysler cast number.

Fig 7. 1975 Pontiac cast number.
As mentioned earlier location is important, fig 7 shows a 1975 400 Pontiac block. Again if viewed from the front, the number is on top of the block just behind the left-hand bank of cylinders. Now you have your precious engine numbers it is best to contact your spares supplier. They should be able to help decode the numbers for you.

Having briefly covered the two extremes of engine identification, let’s try to cover that all too familiar grey and muddy area. This is when you have an engine and you think you know what it is but your not 100% convinced. All you really need are a few pointers to guide you in the right direction, just to confirm your beliefs. There are many tell tale signs that can help you with your identification. For instance have you ever been to a car show with a friend, and been impressed by the way they instantly know, “that’s a small Chev” or “what a great Pontiac lump.” Your friend obviously knows the small peculiarities of each engine. In the immortal words of Sherlock Holmes, “These are the things you may have looked at, but not observed.” Things such as valve cover size and bolt fixings or the number of bolts that mount the water pump. It is these simple but important features that sometimes allow almost immediate identification of an engine type.

As an initial example lets take a look at some GM engines that were fitted in various models during the 1970’s. Possibly the most confused engines from this period are the 400 CID Pontiac and the 403 CID Oldsmobile engine. These were both fitted into Trans Ams from 1977 to 1979. Unfortunately Pontiac show both engines as 6.6litre. So if you have one of these beasts, how do you tell them apart without decoding VIN's or collecting engine cast numbers. The water pump is a good place to start, the 400 CID Pontiac engine, from this period, has an 11 bolt mounted water pump whilst the Oldsmobile water pump has 8 bolts. The valve covers also vary in as much as the Pontiac has 4 bolts retaining each cover whereas the Oldsmobile can have up to 10 bolts per cover. There are some other minor differences, but this should be enough information to tell the two apart. Other engines fitted to the Firebird and Trans Am of this time were the 305 CID and the 350 CID small block Chevrolet engines. These are easily identified by the 4 bolt retained valve covers and the water pump which is mounted on two legs, one either side of the timing cover, using four bolts, two per leg. During the early 1970’s Chevrolet were fitting some of their ‘big block’ engines to various vehicles. These can be identified by the 4-bolt water pump, also mounted on two legs. The valve covers are retained by 7 bolts and are 7 inches wide. Pontiac was also fitting 350 CID and 301 CID engines. The 301 CID engine may be identified by its laterally mounted oil filter; i.e. it screws to the side of the block lying down, as opposed to being vertically mounted. Also fitted into these ‘F-body’ cars, as well as several Cadillacs of the time, was the 350 CID Oldsmobile engine. Oldsmobile were also producing a diesel version of their 350 CID engine, which was fitted into Cadillac and numerous other GM models during the mid to late 70’s. Obviously identified by type of fuel it uses! If you have a Cadillac with a petrol engine and are not sure what you have, as a general guide if the distributor is at the front of the engine it should be a Cadillac powered car. Cadillac’s with rear mounted distributors are usually Oldsmobile powered. Towards the end of the 1970’s Buick were getting in on the engine sharing bandwagon, and their 350 CID engine, easily identified by its front mounted distributor, was finding its way into various Oldsmobile and Pontiacs. These were interesting times indeed for General Motors, the vast array of engine sizes they had to hand allowed them to offer an equally large amount of option packages for their vehicles.

Briefly moving away from GM and heading over to Ford, and the two engines here that are most often confused. In one corner there is the 351 Windsor engine named after the Canadian City where it was first produced. The city being Windsor not ‘351’. In the other corner is the 351 Cleveland engine. Strangely enough named after the city in Ohio where it was first produced. Many people often confuse these motors. The quickest and easiest method of identification is valve cover bolt count. The Cleveland engine has 8 bolts retaining each cover whilst the Windsor only has 6 bolts per cover. If after this you are still unsure pull out your measuring stick, the Cleveland covers should measure 6 inches overall width and the Windsor 5¼ inches. The Cleveland engine went on to become the 351M or modified engine and has the same valve cover bolt count and size as the Cleveland. Unfortunately, the 289 CID and 302 CID engine configurations are very similar to the 351 Windsor engine, and consequently determining actual displacement of the engine has to be done through cast or stamped numbers on the block or an internal investigation........ wasn’t that a hit for Dire Straits. 

With the interest in early 70’s muscle cars being better than ever at the moment, a lot of Mopar vehicles are popping out of the wood work. Mopar, obviously covering vehicles from the Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth stables. The most sort after engine from Mopar being the 426 CID ‘hemi.” Easily identified, as is any hemi, by the row of spark plugs down the centre of the valve covers, with the front mount distributor putting it in the big block family of engines from Mopar. The small block Mopar engines may be identified by their rear mount distributor and 7 bolt water pump. The remaining big block Mopar engines have a front mount distributor and small circular 4 bolt mounted water pump.

In summary, the first course of action should be to find out if the engine belongs to the vehicle. VIN decoding is then required to identify engine size and year. For exact identification of any engine without having the VIN or stripping it down and measuring stroke length and bore size, you will have to refer to the engine blocks cast numbers or stamped serial or production codes. For rough identification there are numerous little peculiarities that engines have to use as a guide. These will generally tell you whether an engine is Ford, GM or Mopar; it is rare you will never tell exact engine size just by looking. Remember to make use of your local American car club or American spares supplier, ultimately these are the people who will be able to help you in your quest.

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